Capitol Reef
If you’ve ever dreamed of escaping to a land of red rock wonders, ancient petroglyphs, and serene desert nights, Capitol Reef National Park in Utah is your next must-visit destination. Nestled in the heart of Utah’s red rock country, this lesser-known gem offers breathtaking landscapes, intriguing history, and outdoor adventures. Here’s a few things you might need to know when planning your visit, including camping at the fantastic Thousand Lakes RV Resort in nearby Torrey, UT.
Capitol Reef National Park is a geologist’s paradise, stretching nearly 60 miles long and just 6 miles wide. This narrow, winding park is named for its whitish Navajo Sandstone domes that resemble the U.S. Capitol and the rocky ridges that were impassable “reefs” to early travelers. The park’s central feature, the Waterpocket Fold, is a nearly 100-mile-long warp in the Earth’s crust, providing a visual feast of colors, textures, and formations that change with the light and seasons.
One of the park’s most striking features is the Cathedral Valley, home to iconic monoliths such as the Temples of the Sun and Moon. These towering formations offer stunning photo opportunities, especially at sunrise and sunset when the light plays dramatically on the red and orange rock faces. The valley’s remote location means it’s less crowded, providing a peaceful and reflective experience for those who venture here.
The park preserves numerous petroglyph panels created by the Fremont culture over a thousand years ago. These intricate carvings depict animals, human figures, and abstract symbols. Don’t miss the petroglyph panel along the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive, easily accessible and well-marked for visitors. Some of the rocks have started to fall so these are being lost. There are also some idiots who feel the need to leave their own marks beside the petroglyphs.
Hiking enthusiasts will find trails that range from easy walks to strenuous backcountry routes. The Hickman Bridge Trail is a popular 2-mile round-trip hike leading to a stunning natural arch. For a more challenging adventure, the Cassidy Arch Trail offers a 3.4-mile round-trip hike with rewarding views of the arch named after the infamous outlaw Butch Cassidy, who allegedly used the area as a hideout. I did not hike either of these. There are 20+ mile hikes in the park if you so desire.
The park offers many activities. Canyoneering, Biking, Back Country Camping/Trekking and ATV trails abound in and around the park.
My Hikes
I did hike the Rim Overlook Trail, another exceptional hike that offers stunning views of Capitol Reef. This 4.6-mile round-trip trail starts at the Hickman Bridge Trailhead and ascends steadily, offering breathtaking views of the Fremont River and the historic Fruita district below. The overlook provides a fantastic vantage point to appreciate the sheer scale and beauty of the park’s rugged terrain, making it a favorite among photographers and nature lovers alike. You can easily add Hickman Bridge Trail at the beginning or end of this hike. However, there is on overlook to the Bridge on this trail so I did not see any reason to add the mileage. You can also extend the trail by adding the Navajo Knobs Trail. I should note that the Rim Overlook Trail is basically a 2.5 mile climb and then hiking back down.
What I liked about the Rim Overlook Trail was that it was 80% on wide rock. It was hard to spot the trail and people had made little totems to mark the path. This was my favorite hike of the week.
My first hike was the Chimney Rock Trail. This 3.6-mile loop trail offers hikers an elevation gain of about 590 feet and takes them through some of the park’s most beautiful rock formations. The highlight of the trail is Chimney Rock itself, a towering red sandstone spire that dominates the landscape. The loop also offers expansive views of the desert floor and the Waterpocket Fold, making it a diverse and visually stunning hike.
After weeks of desert and canyon hiking. I was ready for some forest scenery. For those looking to explore less frequented trails, Chokecherry Point is a hidden gem within Dixie National Forest. This hike offers a strenuous 6.4-mile round trip with an elevation gain of around 2,112 feet. The trail provides hikers with panoramic views of the Waterpocket Fold and the surrounding desert landscape. The solitude and striking vistas at the top make Chokecherry Point a must-do for those seeking a peaceful yet rewarding hike. I didn’t see another person on the whole trail. This hike starts at around 8,800 feet and ends at 10,771 feet. When I reached the top there was still snow on the ground. I will not kid you. This is 3.2 miles up the side of the mountain and is not for the those who are out of shape. I saw plenty of animal sign and on Big Horn. The altitude definitely adds to the challenge
Where to stay
When it comes to camping, Thousand Lakes RV Resort in Torrey, UT, is the perfect base for your Capitol Reef adventures. Just a short drive from the park entrance, this well-maintained resort offers a variety of accommodations, including RV sites, tent sites, and cozy cabins. With amenities like a swimming pool, hot tub, and free Wi-Fi, it’s a great place to relax after a day of exploring.
Thousand Lakes RV Resort has a friendly staff and stunning views of the surrounding red rock landscape. Each evening, as the sun sets, the cliffs light up in shades of pink and orange, providing a perfect backdrop for an outdoor barbecue or a quiet evening around the campfire. There is actually a BBQ restaurant in the campground that serves breakfast and dinner. The resort’s location in Torrey means you’re also close to local restaurants and shops, making it easy to stock up on supplies or enjoy a meal out.
This is where I stayed and one of my favorite things about the campground, other than the views, was the size of the lot. My site was 70 feet deep, leaving plenty of room to park the truck in front of the camper without it sticking out into the road. The site was also wide. Wide enough to park the truck beside the camper if I wanted. It’s nice to have more than a few feet between you and your neighbor. lastly, I had a large area behind my RV where the fire pit was located with a view or red mountains.
Not all sites in the campground are this large. The campground is smartly designed so that there are sites for different size campers and tents grouped together and with a view. There are a couple of other campgrounds, both inside and outside the park. There’s dispersed camping, motels and cabins.
Food and Fun
There were no breweries in Torrey or nearby by I did find Etta Place Cider, a charming cider house in Torrey that offers a delightful array of handcrafted ciders. Named after the mysterious companion of Butch Cassidy, this spot is perfect for winding down after a day of hiking. Their outdoor seating area provides stunning views of the red rock landscape, making it an ideal place to relax and enjoy a refreshing drink.
For a taste of authentic Mayan cuisine, Chak Balam in Torrey is the spot. This unique restaurant brings the flavors of the Yucatán Peninsula to Utah. This was the best Mexican style food I had. I did not however try the food truck serving similar food. One thing I’ve noticed in Utah. Most of the Mexican style restaurants serve nacho cheese instead of white or queso style cheese. I’m not a fan of this. It reminds me to much of the cheap concession nachos from my childhood.
If you’re in the mood for a casual yet satisfying meal, Slacker’s Burger Joint is the place to be. Known for its juicy burgers, crispy fries, and laid-back atmosphere, Slacker’s is a favorite among locals and tourists alike. It’s the perfect spot to grab a bite after a long day of exploring the park’s trails, offering comfort food that hits the spot. I actually drove up about 15 minutes after they had closed and the girl from inside came out and invited me in and they fed me anyway.
I had lunch one day right across the street from Slackers at the Rock Reef Cafe. The menu features locally sourced ingredients and creative dishes. From gourmet salads to perfectly cooked steaks, the Rock Reef Cafe ensures a memorable dining experience amidst the rustic charm of Torrey. I was there for lunch and had a delicious steak sandwich.
Finally, no visit to Torrey would be complete without a meal at the Broken Spur Steakhouse. This restaurant offers hearty, classic Western fare with a focus on high-quality steaks and local produce. With its warm, inviting atmosphere and friendly service, Broken Spur Steakhouse is the perfect place to enjoy a satisfying dinner while recounting the day’s adventures. Everything here had an amazing flavor. My steak was a little tough but the flavor was perfect. Be prepared to wait. This place is very popular.
One place I wanted to eat was Hunt and Gather. It offers a carnivore and a vegetarian menu. I didn’t make it there but it looks amazing.
In summary, Capitol Reef is not just a destination—it’s an experience. From the awe-inspiring landscapes and rich history to the welcoming atmosphere of Thousand Lakes RV Resort, your trip here will be nothing short of spectacular. So channel your inner explorer, embrace the spirit of adventure, and discover why Capitol Reef is one of Utah’s best-kept secrets.